Categories
Adjusting Expat Musings

Foreign Workers, Immigrants and Expats

I am often struggling with the semantics of these identities. When I get a table at Nobu Doha, I’m an expat. When i have my mandatory medical exam to get my residency card at the prison-like fortress in the desert, I am most certainly experiencing a small slice of the immigrant experience, or even less dignified, the experience of the foreign worker.

Me, seeking permission to exist and work in a country that is not my homeland, completely at the mercy of ceaselessly-subordinated officials who have their own bones to pick – for neither is it their homeland. They too, are temporary, imported workforce with little to no authority over their own lives. If we grow old, get sick, or lose our jobs or local sponsors, we become ineligible to exist here. In my day-to-day expat life, i would be entitled to boss them around, but not on this day.

In the case of Qatar, these freaky-friday-level, power flips involve a clash of class, race, history, economic improvement opportunities, cultural norms, religious beliefs and practices, and language barriers – just to name a few.

The medical exam wardens are mainly women, in keeping with Islamic gender segregation principles, and burdened by a long-practiced requirement to appear stern, even cruel, in their ministrations to us, other prospective foreign workers, gathered in silent, senseless, snaking, paper-gown queues, stepping up only the two permitted steps at a time but never waiting until there are four steps… all to meet their punitive instructions. Non-compliance is met with brutal and immediate rebuke. Sometimes we, the applicants, just don’t understand the instructions, and maybe in my case, a blatantly rule-adverse white girl from New Jersey, perhaps i just don’t wish to comply with group abuse that feels undignified and absurd. A wish is a privilege i am fortunate enough to enjoy, most days. I won’t go too deeply into what happened next, but the example is meant to hint at a precarious identity when one is a guest worker or a slave in a foreign land.

As an often-ignorant American who had never experienced living in this part of the world, i lacked comprehension or anticipation of my expendability and identity in a place or a group where i would never have an opportunity to become a member. The US is a nation where foreigners theoretically can immigrate, can become American – as futile, impossible and even fatal as these attempts may sometimes be, immigrants are possible.

“Others” can theoretically join our club, become one of US. Where i live now, i could never, not with struggle, education, funding, desire, marriage, – whatever – i could never become Qatari, could never join that club. Loopholes are rare and fleeting and perhaps as inauthentic as an oasis mirage.

Although an experienced expat in other countries previously, before this experience, i could never have comprehended these realities. Even now it’s hard for me to grok. Preservation of ancestral and cultural heritage is a pursuit sometimes noble, sometimes not. We throw genetic lineage into the mix as well. The balance of ancestral pride and welcoming and learning about the ‘other’ is what i had the blessing of knowing most of my life. How little i knew about how extremely rare this time, this place, this mindset was in history.

frightened and powerless is how it must feel for many foreign workers and immigrants

Categories
Love and Loss Nostalgia Travel Blows the Mind

Raging Around the Indian Ocean

In the waiting area for the tiny plane to the private island, i’m slugging from the Grey Goose bottle i just panic-bought in the overpriced duty-free shop, upon landing. All around me, people are joyful; i remain remotely rigid. Smiling into the neck of the bottle, i thought of the beaming, young Qatari women who wished me a great stay. One of the pair had been here before. She motioned to her partner – “It’s her first time. You’re really in for a treat.” Once the big plane had landed, they shed their abayas, their aloof demeanors, and the burden of hiding their love. Habibti.

Our plane was late. Or in need of repair. “That was supposed to be your plane.” The manager showed me the mechanic working in the little hanger. “We are waiting for two more passengers. If they make it, we’ll be over our weight limit, so each couple will leave one bag behind.” Huh. Why had we packed so sparingly – so very irritatingly mathematically, weighing and re-weighing our small duffels, only to be displaced by some tardy honeymooners? I went back into the lounge and took another pull of the vodka, not really bothering to hide it anymore.

Years spent in the oft-touted-wealthiest-country-in-the-world can make a girl brazenly entitled. It had been four years of seemingly-limitless abuse and struggle in a furnace of nation and now our first break since surviving an impossible project. Entitlement and her sister, Disdain, almost always roll downhill. As a middleman, i had reliably superior aim, and, for my husbands happiness, i am a lioness. My dad had just died. I hadn’t saved him nor given him all the experiences he had still had a taste for — and i’d be damned if anything was going to get in the way of giving the man i had left everything he deserved.

My finely-tuned InshAllah seemed enfeebled by a fleeting and baseless sense of influence over the course of life’s events. When one’s relation to life loses the slipperiness of accepting everything, the resulting friction can be nearly lethal. With this hot antagonism, i greeted the holiday.

Categories
Adjusting Memories

They changed the call to prayer…

The crescent moon came up, so magnificent that friends on multiple continents remarked about its beauty. The advent of this blessed month was announced by the Moon Sighting Committee. It was an auspicious start for Ramadan 2020. The call to prayer echoing from the mosques, which has urged the faithful for 13 centuries to “Come Pray!” now implores followers to “Pray at home!”

In Ramadan’s month-long focus on introspection, charity, and self discipline, 2020 has the world’s population captive and humanity synchronously practicing these principles, while facing our individual and collective fears and vulnerabilities.

I’m always struck by the phrase ‘Shelter in Place’. Growing up during the cold war, i associated a shelter with a response to a chemical or radiological event. Shelter is a powerful word. It may be shelter from the storm, protection from an air raid, a safe place for a refugee, the homeless, destitute, stateless, the outcast, victims of violence, lost or discarded animals. You could also lead a sheltered life, receive shelter from family, friends or strangers, reduce liability in a tax shelter or wait for a bus there. It has an essence of spiritual meaning to “take shelter” or “give shelter” or “seek shelter” or “find shelter” in times of suffering. Shelter offers solace. So sheltering in place requires us to find solace within ourselves.

On May 13th, the anniversary of Our Lady of Fatima’s appearance in Portugal, my amazing Aunt S. sent me a photo of a crimson-red rose she cut from a plant my grandmother Stella planted so many years ago. Stella had planted the roses in honor of the Blessed Mother. Aunt S. says she hasn’t been giving the rose plant much attention, but this year she will give it some food and prune it in honor of her mother. She prays diligently, for all of us, looking out at these roses, each day.

I have a bracelet given to me by my darling D. and Z. They created much of the jewelry i have worn for the past decade. The bracelet reads GAMBLE EVERYTHING FOR LOVE IF YOU’RE A TRUE HUMAN BEING.

Transformation is fucking hard. And usually we have a lot more distractions available. Life is a gamble. A real Hail Mary.

Gamble everything for love,
if you’re a true human being.
If not, leave this gathering.
Half-heartedness doesn’t reach into majesty.
You set out to find God, but then you keep stopping for long periods at mean-spirited roadhouses.
Don’t wait any longer. Dive in the ocean, leave, and let the sea be you.
Silent, absent, walking an empty road, all praise.

–Jalāl ad-Dīn Muḥammad Balkhī 

The Eid Al-Fitr holiday will begin tomorrow in Qatar. It was announced today by the Amiri Diwan, the seat of rule and administrative offices of HH The Amir. Eid Mubarak. Happy Eid!

As a world, we are working our way through the evolution of salutations. I have heard some different new sign-offs of late: to our loved ones, from a TV anchor, from strangers on customer service phone calls. “Stay safe.” “Be safe.” “Hope everyone in your world is staying healthy!” Your world. My World.

Is there a World flag?

If there is, we should fly it.

In 1970, James W. Cadle, a farmer from Homer, Illinois, created his own version of a Flag of Earth.